A Roman Penny Walk

When my son was little we used to go on what we called "penny walks." We'd walk until an intersection, flip a penny, and turn right for heads or left for tails. Sometimes we took the car and went on penny rides. We always had a great time discovering new places--never knowing where we'd end up or what we'd find. [It was also really cheap entertainment.]

Today John and I did a Roman adventure version of a penny walk. We hopped onto the metropolitan (aka "the metro", Rome's underground subway) at the Piazza de Spagna and rode until we reached a stop we'd never heard of--the Valle Aurelia. This stop is to the far west of Roma centro. In fact, it's literally off the map, so don't go looking for it. We got off at the Valle Aurelia stop and found ourselves in a neighborhood that was somewhat reminiscent of the Central West End in the STL. Part business, part residential, eclectic restaurants, wide streets, and plenty of great people watching.

We stopped for pranza (lunch) at a little place with a long take-out order bar filled with freshly-made sandwiches, cheeses, salads, and five or six tavoli (tables). The signora bella behind the counter invited us to take a seat and her husband came to take our order. Being Americans, and unfortunately acting like we were still in les Stati Uniti, we asked him for a menu. "What do you want?" he asked. "Pasta," I safely replied. "Ah! Macaroni con vodka e pomodore?" Followed by the universal shrug. "Si." I shrugged back. Giovanni added una salata and asked for due piatti (two plates) so we could share.

Our pranza was delivered by the owner, who is also the father of the signora bella and father-in-law of the waiter. He was really excited we chose his little ristorante. It's funny because the Italians love to practice their English, and we Americani love to practice our Italian. So the conversation went something like this:

Angelo: "So, where from in America?"

J&K: "Sono di St. Louis."

Angelo: "In Louisiana, correct?"

J&K: "No, en Missouri, vicino al Chicago."

Angelo: "Oh Chicago! It's cold, right?"

J&K: "Si, freddo in inverno."

Katerina e Angelo

Angelo: "Do you like your lunch? I make just for you."

J&K: "Delizioso."

And so it went. We ended up seeing pictures of Angelo's grandbaby, hearing about how this family-run business was his dream, talking about futbol, and getting an invitation back anytime to his ristorante. We exchanged email addresses, took photos, and Angelo kissed my hand. It's really not so difficult to communicate with people--even if you don't share each other's native language.

Now, in light of Mr. C's calling me out for my innocent observation of the incredibly beautiful Italian men...I'd like to share a little random eye candy with you--especially you Tammy Phelps! 

Katerina



Wednesday morning broke beautifully.  Tried a new place to buy K's coffee (she likes the first cuppa in bed and I deliver).  Not as good as Romo's Elen Bar (our main hangout) so Romo keeps the first cup of the day franchise.  Then Kathryn goes to Italian class from 11-1.  I hangout at the Elen Bar with great wireless and priceless views.  Work a bit; email; watch the ladies walk on bad surfaces with tight outfits and 4 inch heels; giggle at the tourists with their maps and confused looks.   As my mom used to say "I'm not laughing at you, I'm laughing with you."

After class we gather our maps and put on our confused looks for the ride to "somewhere for lunch" chronicled above.

Upon our return we bravely decide to get off at a different metro stop from the one we had left from.  Leaving the station we had two choices for our exit (uscita).  50-50, what are the chances we took the wrong choice.  100%.

We wound up on Via Veneto, a lovely, high end street with shops and restaurants way out of our price range.  Now we know where the high rollers stay when in Rome.  We continued to walk in the wrong direction for quite a while.  Eventually breaking down and asking for help.  We wound up on a long walk in an underground tunnel under the Borghese gardens and eventually wound up at our original metro stop.  We know how to get home from here!

I had a conference call with a customer, Kathryn took a nap and then we headed out for a dinner.  K had the best pasta fagiola and I took the waiter's recommendation for a truly Roman pasta dish over my comfort zone choices.  It was a long thick noodle simply dressed with olive oil, paremsan and ground pepper.  Wouldn't sell on the Hill because it is too simple.

Watched remake of Psycho in English, which wasn't as good as the original Hitchcock version we watched Tuesday night.  Why remake a classic?

Slept like a bambino.

Giovanni

La Scuola, Il Barbiere, Il Poeta, e Audrey Hepburn

Yesterday was my primo giorno di scuola (first day of school). I'd already taken a written test, but I had to take an oral test to make sure I wasn't "an absolute beginner." Absolute beginners have to start the same day--and the next session isn't starting until next Monday. Aaaaaccckkk! Test anxiety. If I passed I'd get to start immediately at 11 with another group. Not to worry, thanks to Annuciata--il miglior insegnante di italiano a St. Louis and 43 Pimsleur CDs--I was able to hold my own in a conversazione with my tester. According to her, I am not "an absolute beginner."

30 minutes after my test I started class with 5 other students. We meet twice a week for 2 hours. Not ONE word of anything but Italian is supposed to be spoken. At one point, our teacher Julia asked me a question with about 35 rapid fire words. Uh. Hmmm.  Here's how I answered, "Ay yi yi. Mamma Mia!" Then I shrugged. Julia nodded. Shrugging and pointing are the great equalizers when your Italian is just so-so (cosi-cosi). 

After class I caught up with Mr. C who was sitting at the outdoor caffe we discovered yesterday. He was enjoying espresso and writing some software program for one of his customers. BTW, this very same caffe is featured in the movie Roman Holiday. Personally, I think Roman Holiday is one of the saddest movies ever, but the scene with Gregory Peck, Audrey Hepburn, and Eddie Albert sitting outside the caffe just like John and I did is a happy one. There are pictures of Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck at the entrance. Inside there are more pictures of a return visit Gregory Peck made years later. Here's an interesting thing to know...sitting outside at a table adds a few euros to your bill. John and I have made friends with the owner/operators, Romolo and his wife. 

Romolo likes us so much he wants us to call him Romo.



After school and coffee we continued on our Frommer's Walking Tour #2. Mr. Frommer says this is a 3.5 hour tour, but we just wrapped up all 18 stops today.  We figured we put in at least 9 hours. Maybe we're really slow.

JK looking dreamy before
he got sick.

A big highlight for me was seeing John Keats' house. His story is even sadder than Roman Holiday but it fascinates me. I was in an advanced placement English class in high school and Mrs. Hoyt and I decided my huge research paper should be on John Keats. How we decided that I have no idea, but ever since then I've been a JK groupie. Trust me, he's way more than just his "Odes on a Grecian Urn...To A Nightingale...To Psyche..." etc. 

When he was just 25-years-old he was madly in love with Ms. Fanny Brawne, but he was also suffering from the first symptoms of the dreaded tuberculosis which killed one brother a few years before--and would sound the death knell for his other brother a few years later. Keats moved to Rome from London, hoping the weather would help his health. Sadly, it didn't work out that way and needless to say, JK and Fanny never hooked up. He ended up dying in his little room just four months after he got there. My John says it was the four flights of stairs that killed him, but I think that's just mean.

His last request was that he be buried with an epitaph on a headstone that he wrote: Here lies One whose Name was writ in Water." He specifically said not to inscribe his name or the date he died on the  headstone. Makes me cry every time I think of it.

Another highlight was walking down the Via del Corso. Anyone who's ever been to Rome knows about the streets that turn and twist, up a hill, down a couple of hills, etc. This street is a straight arrow and long. Apparently from the 1500s to at least the 1700s, Via del Corso was racing heaven. From what I read the Romans would race everything that could move--horses with riders and without, chariots, even street urchins. Today it's still a popular street for the nightly "passegiata"--that's when the beautiful people take their nightly stroll to see and be seen. 

We stopped off at a local butcher shop and picked up some fresh mozzarella, prosciutto, ham, and bread--and yes, olives. The shopkeeper was delightful and acted like my Italian was really good.


Kathryn







We are beginning to be acclimated to the time change.  Lots of walking and getting familiar with our surroundings.  Happy to have made friends with the coffee shop guy.  I practice my Italiano with Romo and the lovely Romanian assistant, Carmellia.

Kathryn has alleviated my worry about obviously staring at the Italian women.  She said to me today "The only thing better looking than Italian women is, ..... Italian men!"    So right after that, we were buying soccer (futbol) tickets for this coming Sunday and a lovely ticket attendant was falling out of the top of her outfit.  I just stared in comfort and didn't say a word.  :)   

We found ourselves in the plaza where the parliament building is.  A search for a place for a bite to eat and a drink had us outside across from a building that was very impressive.  As we were leaving we asked "What is this building?"  The answer, "Berlusconi's office.  He hasn't been seen in a month there."  So essentially, we ate lunch 20 feet from the entrance to the White House.  No one seemed as stressed out as our DC is.  AND, I got to say "Boomba Boomba," drawing a smile from our waiter and the guard at the gate. A similar joke about our President probably wouldn't prompt the same reaction by his guards.  

We spotted a barber shop just across from Mr. Berlusconi's building. A trim of the "travel beard" was in order.  After being a bit concerned that she thought we wanted the entire beard gone we agreed to the trim.  As you can see, I was in good hands.  Kathryn, sitting watching was joined by the next customer, yet another gorgeous Italian man.  

Late in the day of walking we went into some lovely churches.  From the outside they didn't look like so much other than ancient buildings.  Inside, incredible.  Quiet, peaceful, ornate and a place to sit, pray, reflect, etc.   At the last church, San Marcus, an old priest using a walker shuffled across the main area to a small chapel where a small service was held.  Very sweet scene.  Pope John Paul II had visited the church and there was an area dedicated to his visit.

This is only Tuesday night but we have our weekend planned.  Friday night to the Opera right around the corner then Sunday afternoon at the Futbol game.  AS Roma is off to a good start to their season and in first place of their division of the Italian major futbol league. There was loud cheering in the streets last night when Roma beat Parma 3-1.

Ciao!

Giovanni

Location, location, location

Yesterday we had three things on our agenda:

1. Settle into our apartment
2. Find my language school (I'm taking an Italian class 2 hours a day, 2 days each week we're here)
3. Take a self-directed walking tour of the "heart of Rome"--with the main goal of seeing the president's home which is only open on Sunday mornings

Check, check, and sort of check.

The apartment is spacious, with big windows, a little kitchen, decent wi-fi, lots of closets, and two bathrooms, and a bedroom. In short it's practically perfect in every way. There's also room for anyone who wants to come visit us.

After we unpacked we set off a piedi (on foot) to explore. Our guide was Frommer's "Walking Tour #2--The Heart of Rome."

When we reserved our apartment, we knew the general area we wanted to stay in but as it turns out the location is even more perfect than we first imagined. We're near the Spanish Steps on a street named Via Capo de Case. Everything we could ever want is convenient. Food, coffee, drugstores, banks, hairdressers, Gucci (haha), etc.

Following Frommer's map we walked down to the end of our block, turned left, and then just one door from the corner I saw a sign for my school--Italidea. No kidding! 2 minutes from our apartment! As they say, "even a blind pig gets an acorn now and then." 

Continuing on...we made it to Piazza del Quirinale in time to take a tour of the Italian President's palace. This is the White House on steroids. President Giorgio Napolitano (no relation to former USA Homeland Security Chief Janet) is 87 years old! If you think our government gridlock is unique--consider this...Napolitano is the first Italian president to be re-elected to a second term. Apparently he was planning to retire, but then the Parliament members who elect him fought and fought about who would succeed him. They couldn't come to a consensus, so they just asked Giorgio to stay on. This place is huge. And ornate. And has one room after another named versions of Grande Ballroom, Grande Hallway, Grande Salon--in Italia Grande is definitely better.

Really tall palace guard

Speaking of big, one thing we noticed is that all the guards are not just men, but really, really, tall men. John is 6' tall and these guys towered over him. One thing I noticed is that all of these really tall, male guards are also really handsome. 

The Piazza del Quirinale is on the highest of all of the famed seven hills of Rome. When we came out of President Napolitano's place it was pouring rain so we have to come back to really appreciate the view. Even with the rain, it was still pretty spectacular.

One thing I especially like about Rome is how the entrepreneurs show up with cheap umbrellas and plastic ponchos the second it starts raining. 3 euros for an umbrella, 5 euros for a poncho and on we went to the Trevi Fountain. 

Everyone's heard of the fountain, but across the street there's a church that's not as well known. (Actually, across most streets in Rome there's a church, or two, or three). This place houses the intestines and hearts of several centuries of popes. Why? Don't know. All I read is that the church used to be the parish church of popes and when they died they willed their hearts and intestines to it. La mia bonta!

We only made it to four of the 18 stops on the tour before jet lag forced us to return to our apartment for much-needed naps. 14 more places to visit before the end of the week (there are 3 more walking tours we want to take). 

Katerina

 Our first day in Rome working on no sleep and a 7 hour time change!  We did really well finding the places we wanted to find.  The presidential palace was incredible.  Trevi fountain was not packed as the rain had started to fall.  We had no umbrella...... no problem, at the first sign of rain the sellers were out with 3 euro umbrellas (very flimsy) and 5 euro ponchos (better.)   We got both and then found a quiet place for a fabulous meat and cheese platter, Rome style.  There is something about the olives here.  They taste better.

Back to the flat for a nap.  Upon awaking tried to check out the tv and found NFL football (Bears / Vikings) with Italian announcers.  Very fun but no out of town scores (how are the Rams doing? ... Never mind).

Finally a late evening walk and mission to find gelato.  Success and off to much needed long sleep.  Monday in Roma awaits!!










Giovanni

The Best Flight EVER!

On travel days John and I have a complete role reversal. He becomes the Type A and I'm the laid back one (for real). Saturday morning our plane was scheduled to leave at 10:30am. We were already packed, but just to make sure we didn't miss lift off John got up before 5. He always lets me sleep, but he's not quiet about it. Plus, it makes him really nervous when we have a plane to catch and I get up later than he thinks prudent--so needless to say, I was up really early too. No need to add stress to his Type A morning.

John with Delta Dude after bag fiasco

We made it to the airport in plenty of time. Like two hours to spare. Then. Disaster. We'd left one bag at home. While John and the cabbie sped back to our house, I checked in the rest of our bags with the Delta dude. John and the missing bag made it back to the airport, the Delta dude was waiting with the tag and all was well. Crisis averted. Proceed through security.





John's a big guy, so the last time we made a long flight we vowed (he made me) that we'd look into upgrading to business class in the future. Whoa. What a difference. The flight from JFK to Rome was especially spectacular. Generally speaking, I HATE flying. Not this time.








Note how happy John looks. He finally had complete control of everything. His video screen. His computer. His seat. His adjustable high-intensity lamp. Everything. Happy. Happy. Happy.









Well, actually me too. Our seats reclined--all the way down. We had vibrating/messaging controls. Frette linens. 5 star food. Bulgari toiletries. I watched "My Week With Marilyn" and part of some movie with Jude Law and Rooney Mara before I fell asleep all wrapped up in my personal duvet.

Even with the 7-hour time change we both arrived rested and ready for Sunday in Rome. I'm sold on business class. Awesome in every way.






Next stop: 52 Via Capo Le Case.

 Katerina


Everything Kathryn wrote about me is true!  Really, travel days are grueling.  But we did well.  I'm afraid that flying in business class from NYC to Rome has forever ruined coach flying for me.  This is a fiscal dilemma.

We made it to our home for the next few weeks.  Details tomorrow.   Ciao.

Giovanni

Partiamo Domani

Friday
September 13, 2013

Hard to believe that after 18 months of planning Mr. C. and I say arrivederci to the STL tomorrow and set off for our five-week Italian adventure. As my son tells people, "They want to be Romans."

At least for a little while, anyway.

We have big plans--lots of pasta and pasticerria, long walks, language classes (for me), a visit to the Pope's house, a train trip to Venice and Milan, gelato, the opera, and capping it all off with five days in Paris. Big plans, but mostly we're free-forming our way over the next 33 days to get to know The Eternal City more intimately.

One thing Mr. C. and I do really well together is travel. Good thing--this is going to be one avventura eccellente.

It's going to be hard to sleep tonight.

Katerina

Very excited to be getting on the plane tomorrow.  Trying to tie up loose ends tonight.   Feels very strange to be leaving home base for five weeks.  Hoping to enjoy every day, the sights we see, the experiences we have AND to be productive enough to keep my customers happy!

Giovanni