What is a vestal virgin, anyway?

Just to catch up…

I had my second day of class. We’re practicing our past tenses now. (What? Already?) We do a lot of chatting in small groups—helping each other get more comfortable speaking and listening to the beautiful Italian language. E stata dura ma anche divertente. I’ve been a little distressed because I only brought pens. I need a pencil with an eraser.

John and I have walked and walked and walked. The other day we 

got slightly lost—nothing serious because we knew we were only a block, maybe two, from the street we wanted. I was looking at my phone or the map or something and heard Mr. C. say “uh, you might want to take a look at this.” I looked up and whoa, we were smack dab in front of the Pantheon. [Not Parthenon—that’s Greece and in that case we would have been really lost].

The Pantheon

It was like turning the corner from Manchester and say Lindbergh onto a side street and finding the Lincoln Memorial right in the middle of the intersection. The Pantheon was finished in 128 AD. Can you imagine? Me either, and I was standing in front of it! The Pantheon, unlike lots of other similarly-aged places in Rome, isn’t just still standing, it still looks almost the same inside and out as it did 1900 years ago. Luckily for future generations, the Pantheon was converted from a temple celebrating Rome’s ancient gods to a Christian church around 600 AD. That protected it from being demolished as a center of paganism. It still operates as a church to this day—Santa Maria ad Martyres (The Virgin And All The Martyrs). Not the happiest of church names, but a beautiful place nonetheless. We’re going back when we have more time to explore and the crowd isn't as big.

Yesterday and today we took the metro to the Roman Forum and the Colosseo. This is the heart of ancient Rome and on Mr. Frommer’s walking tour #2. I'm very proud of how our metro skills are developing. We didn't get lost once either day.

On our first trip to Rome we took an overview (more like overwhelming) tour of the city with a driver/guide. He drove us to a lookout point where we could see this massive area, but we didn’t walk through it. Five years later we’re making it a mission to spend some quality time in The Roman Forum.

The Roman Forum was unearthed mostly during Mussolini’s time, when he cut a swath through the center for a big boulevard. I guess when ancient pillars and body parts from old statues started appearing someone decided maybe it might be a good idea to look into it, rather than just bulldoze everything into a gigantic rubbish pile. Since then, there have been constant archaeological studies putting the whole place back together and in perspective for people like us.

My favorite section was the home of the vestal virgins. Of course, I knew what a vestal virgin was. Not. Short description: For centuries, Rome’s most high-placed families would offer up their young daughters, 6-10 years old, to join the vaunted vestal virgins. The chosen few served for 30 years, then the government let them out of their contracts, they received a pension and they were allowed to marry. They spent 10 years studying, 10 years performing ritual tasks, and 10 years teaching. If any man ruined their virgin status, both were killed. Unfortunately for the vestal formerly virgin woman, she was buried alive because her blood couldn’t be spilled.

Interestingly, most of the VVs just stuck around after their 30-year contract ended, collecting their pensions, and living high on the hog. Some people say the vestal virgins were the precursors of the Catholic church's nuns.

Actually, these women were VERY powerful in the Roman empire. Six at a time made rulings and judgments and advised the emperors. 

They also had cool hairstyles. Here’s a link to a You Tube video a hairdresser did explaining and demonstrating the complicated braiding technique.

We’re going back to the Roman Forum next week because it’s massive and so far, it’s Mr. C’s favorite place. Next time we’re getting the headphones. BTW, I highly recommend the headphone tours at places like these. They’re only about 5 or 6 euros to rent, you can go at your own pace, stop and start or start over whenever you want.

We also visted the Colosseo. We’ve been here before, but it’s such an amazing, breathtaking place I could come every day for a year and still be enthralled. By and large, the Romans deny that any Christians were killed here or gladiators were eaten by lions. But, in the 17^th century a pope blessed the site of the Colosseo and all the Christians that were “lost” there. Hmmm. I rest my case. 

It's also beautiful at night when they light the whole place up from the insides.

We’ve already had so many fun adventures. Mr. C. has discovered a supermercato and is very pleased with himself about it. He keeps going down there and buying things and saying grazie, etc. I love their little rolling baskets, kind of a riff on the Little Tikes kids' carts, and very efficient use of space in narrow aisles.

In the "Mrs. Lincoln" box

A night at the opera

Last night we went to the opera which is around the block from our apartment. Inspired by the Roman women who effortlessly walk the cobblestones in their six-inch heels, I put on my big girl shoes and traipsed on down there--I figured I could handle a 5-minute walk. We enjoyed a special program of arias from various operas and there were cool costumes. Oh, and they serve free pasta in the intermission. Multi buona!

Katerina

Plaza del Popolo

Thursday was another great day in Rome.  Our plan was to rediscover one of our favorite spots from our frenetic one-day visit last year, the Piazza del Popolo.  Home to yet another Egyptian obelisk, two great looking side by side churches and some amazing people watching.  

But first things first, we needed some "paper products" for the apartment.  This would cause me to find what the Italians call the "Super Market."  Really, that's what they call it.  So no drive to the mall.  Just a walk past the Hotel Sienna where we stayed last year, followed by that lost feeling, turning back and finally asking a restaurant employee, where is the Super Market?  "Right down there, 50 meters."  I say, "really?" because I had walked about 48 meters before turning back.  "What does it say on it?"  It says "Super Market."  "Really?"

So the highlight for me was asking the Italian woman which TP was the softest, sqeezing my hands like Mr. Whipple in the old Charmin ads.  Without hesitation she directed me to the "Foxy Soft" brand. Katerina said, "it's a good thing you didn't get slapped."

Turns out the market has a dazzling array of everything from fresh fish, meats and, well everything.

The Desparo "Super Mercato" seems like a place I will be checking out a lot.  Now that I can distinguish it from every other store front......

Some observations.  I'm becoming a snob about some North Americans.  People that just walk up to Italians doing their job and just start jabbering at them in English, as if these locals should drop everything and pay attention to the loud American.  I just think there's some value in learning how to say "Excuse me, please and thank you" in the language to see if the person has a moment to help you find the Trevi Fountain or your hotel.  Also, why would you come all this way to order T-Bone steak? 

Having said this, all Italians seem to know that I am an American.  I guess it's just that obvious.  I say "BuonGiorno" and they say "Good morning" back.  The waiters figure it out right away.  Last night at coffee and dolce, the waiter started out in English with us and I said, "no no, Italiano".  So he said ok.  That worked great until I switched back to English and he said "No, no, all Italiano."  Oh well, we all had a good laugh over this one.

Tomorrow Kathryn and I go to a major league soccer match.  AS Roma vs their suburban rival Lazio.  Oh and we just found out that when these two teams play, this is when the fans go nuts.  If this blog ends abruptly, be concerned.  We'll be rooting for AS Roma, but we've been told to skip that if we are seated in the Lazio section.  I suppose it would be like wearing my St L. Blues gear to the Hawks game in Chicago, ...... times 10.

Giovanni